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The next morning, rain was pounding on the hotel roof as we packed our bags to leave Nepalgunj. Our destination was the town of Kolti, a remote poor area in northwestern Nepal accessible only by air or a week of walking through steep mountain passes. A CARE project (the Remote Area Basic Needs Project) has been working in Bajura for the last decade to improve people's well being and livelihoods. After reading about the district's isolation and beauty, we were anxious to visit.
Before taking off, the flight attendant passed out little wads of cotton for our ears to muffle sounds from the plane's noisy engine. The 40-minute flight was equal parts nerve-wracking and breath-taking, as we watched the lush rice paddies of the Terai rise into craggy hills and jut upwards into  | | Large crowds gather to watch the planes land at the Kolti airport. |
snow-topped peaks. Just as we were beginning to relax and enjoy the view, the plane swung to the left without warning, executed a tight 180-degree turn around a ridge, and started its steep descent into Kolti. We braced for the landing: a jolting thud followed by screaming brakes as we bumped down a short gravel strip.
Local CARE staff gave us a warm and congenial welcome. After exchanging "namaste" greetings at the airport, we made the short walk uphill to CARE's Kolti office, which doubled as a guesthouse and our home for the next few days. The latrines and cold-water-only bathing area were located up a steep flight of stairs in the backyard. The water flowed only sporadically, and had to be purified before drinking. Shiny solar panels on the roof provided enough electricity to power the office's two computers and a printer, but only on sunny days. Our room, located on the third floor, was basic but cozy.
 | | Our room in the CARE guesthouse. |
From the small window of our room, I took a moment to watch the busy street below: small children with sticks herded cattle and buffalo, while groups of brightly dressed women passed by on their way to fetch water. Male porters, some quite elderly, carried large loads on their backs. The smell of burning firewood and onions cooking wafted upwards. The distant sound of cowbells and children's laughter drowned out snatches of conversation from passers-by. Despite its first appearance as a sleepy little village, Kolti was swarming with activity.
We joined CARE's local staff in the front yard for cups of strong, sweet coffee. They told us about CARE's work in Bajura over the last decade, which has focused on community development -- meaning that CARE helps communities identify and solve their own problems by working through local organizations including farmer groups, women's clubs, and local government. CARE's programs have focused on water and sanitation, agriculture, education and literacy, improved income generation, nutrition, primary health care and family planning.
Bajura's difficult operating environment is a challenge for even the most dedicated members of CARE's staff. Health care facilities are very limited, and provide only basic medicines and services. Local merchants sell little in the way of personal comfort items -- besides essential foodstuffs, the tiny shops contain only a few supplies such as cloth and plastic sandals. Many of the villages where CARE works are accessible only by trekking long distances on ankle-twisting paths. We were deeply moved by the level of commitment and good humor shown by CARE's staff, who work in such challenging conditions. To date, CARE has helped more than 12,300 families -- almost 50,000 people -- through its work in Bajura.
 | | CARE Nepal's Sarina Piya and Jasmaya Jirel are on two-year assignments in Bajura. |
Despite these achievements, the need for assistance remains great. Of the 75 districts in Nepal, Bajura comes in second place in terms of overall poverty. More than one-fourth of its population is from economically disadvantaged groups, including lower castes. The primary castes in Nepal include: elite Brahmins, who typically own large farms and are spiritual and community leaders; the Chhetri, traditionally local rulers or administrators; Baisya, who are traders; and the Dum, the lowest-caste group, which is typically landless. Even between different occupations, there are caste distinctions. For example, tailors and blacksmiths are considered to be a higher caste than shoemakers.
CARE has reached out to lower castes through vocational skills training, such as carpentry and tailoring, as well as credit and savings services. Although it is officially illegal to discriminate on the basis of caste in Nepal, the caste system still plays an important part in how people relate to each other, CARE's staff explained.
Continue to Day 4
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